施洞镇是黔东南苗族地区有名的龙舟故乡,也是姊妹节的发源地。除此之外,还是苗族著名的银饰和刺绣之地。施洞位于贵州台江县城北40公里,距镇远古镇才35公里左右。因施洞被群山包围,通往此镇的路全都是弯弯的山路。

Shidong town is the famous dragon boat hometown of ethnic Miao in Guizhou; it’s also the place where Sisters Festival came from. Besides, it’s famous for Miao Trine’s silver accessories and embroidery. It’s located at 40km north of Taijiang county city, and about 35km from Zhenyuan old town. Because of surrounded by mountains, the road to Shidong is all hilly road.

从镇远到施洞的路都是弯弯曲曲的山路,但风景不错。 The road from Zhenyuan to Shidong is all hilly road, but can view nice scenery along the road
从镇远到施洞的路都是弯弯曲曲的山路,但风景不错。
The road from Zhenyuan to Shidong is all hilly road, but can view nice scenery along the road
被群山围绕的施洞 Shidong is surrounded by mountains
被群山围绕的施洞
Shidong is surrounded by mountains

去年为龙舟节特地到施洞时,泊油路还没修好,都是乡间泥路,短短的40公里从台江到施洞的路程,扣除了堵车时间,竟用了1个半小时。今年因姊妹节重回施洞,却见路已修好了,到施洞可方便多了。

Last year, I purposely came here for the Dragon Boat Festival, but the tar road had not paved yet, it was all muddy road. Minus the hour spent on traffic jam, the short distance of 40km from Taijiang to Shidong took me 1.5 hour to reach. This year, I returned to Shidong for the Sisters Festival and I saw the tar road has paved. This has shorten the travel hour and become more convenient.

施洞本身并没有特殊的景点,所以名气比不上规模庞大的西江千户苗寨和以建筑艺术著称的郎德苗寨。但节日一到时,平静的施洞却因传统活动而变得热闹非常、魅力四射,其它什么苗寨都会相形失色。所以,到施洞就一定要选对时间。

Shidong itself doesn’t have any scenic tourist spot. It’s not as popular as Xijiang that has thousands of wooden houses on a hill and Langde that is famous for traditional ethnic Miao architecture. However, when there is a festival, the quiet town Shidong will turn to be a lively and attractive place. The rest of the Miao villages will not be able to compare with it during the festival time. Therefore, you must choose the right time to Shidong.

大清早可随处见苗族妇女在家门口梳头发绑发髻。 Early morning can see the Miao lady combs hair and make hair bun.
大清早可随处见苗族妇女在家门口梳头发绑发髻。
Early morning can see the Miao lady combs hair and make hair bun in front of the maindoor.
小女孩坐在家门口吃早饭 Little girl sits at the front door to eat breakfast
小女孩坐在家门口吃早饭
Little girl sits at the front door to eat breakfast

施洞最盛大的节日莫过于龙舟节和姊妹节。龙舟节是苗族男人竞技的日子,而姊妹节就是苗族女人竞艳的日子。因为大部分的苗族在平日里都不作传统装扮,要看苗族传统服装、银饰、舞蹈和其它活动等等,选这两个节日到此就对了。

The biggest festivals in Shidong are Dragon Boat Festival and Sisters Festival. The Dragon Boat Festival is for the men to compete and the Sisters Festival is for women to dress up. As most of the Miao do not wear traditional clothes during normal days, it is recommended to visit Shidong during both of these festivals to watch the traditional costumes, silver accessories, dances, and other activities of ethnic Miao.

到施洞,可从凯里、台江或镇远过去。从台江到施洞,过完了一段弯弯曲曲的上下山路后,会先经过长滩村。此苗族村寨附近因为有错落有致的美丽稻田和高架高速公路,景色不容小观。我坐在公车上第一次经过长滩村时,差点就哗一声喊出来。如果自驾或包车,可以稍作停留欣赏美景。

You can go to Shidong from Kaili, Taijiang, or Zhenyuan. After a stretch of up-and-down hilly road from Taijiang to the direction of Shidong, you will then pass by Changtan village. Scenery surrounding this village is beautiful due to the rice terraces and elevated highway. While I was on a public bus passed by this village for the first time, I was impressed by the scenic view here. It’s worthwhile to make a stop here if you are driving or renting a car.

过后,会陆续经过几个苗寨才到施洞。其中有个叫老屯村的苗族村寨,是龙舟节和姊妹节的主要举办地之一。然后就是偏寨村,可以走进寨子里看看传统苗寨,这里的梯田是在江水边,景色也不错。听当地人说,偏寨的踩鼓场建了三年也建不好,说是有人私吞款项,工地也停工了。所以在姊妹节时,只好到江水边上踩鼓跳舞。

After that, you will pass by a number of Miao villages before you reach to Shidong. One of the villages called Laotun is the main place to host for Dragon Boat Festival and Sisters Festival. After Laotun, is Pianzhai village. You can walk into this village to see the traditional houses and rice terraces along the river. According to the local people here, the square for drumming and dancing activities has been constructed for 3 years but it’s still not completed yet. Someone has pocketed the money and forced the construction to stop. Therefore, they have to go the riverside for drumming and dancing during Sisters Festival.

施洞大道 - 摄于2014年龙舟节期间 Main street at Shidong - Taken during Dragon Boat Festival in year 2014
施洞大道 – 摄于2014年龙舟节期间
Main street at Shidong – Taken during Dragon Boat Festival in year 2014

过了偏寨,就是施洞镇里的塘龙寨了,走路也只不过15分钟。从这条大街直走,两旁都是店铺。左边的店铺后面是稻田,右边的店铺后面就是清水江了。市集就在江边,即右边店铺后面。

After pass by Pianzhai, you will then reach to Tanglong village that is inside the township of Shidong. It just about 15 minutes walking distance from Pianzhai to Tanglong. Just go further to the main street with shops on both sides of the street. Behind the shops on the left side is rice field, and behind the shops on the right side is Qingshui River. The wet market is at the riverside, which is behind the shops on the right.

店铺后面的稻田 Rice field behind the shoplot
店铺后面的稻田
Rice field behind the shoplot
施洞江边的店铺房子 Shoplot at the riverside in Shidong
施洞江边的店铺房子
Shoplot at the riverside in Shidong
施洞江边的房子 Houses nearby the riverside
施洞江边的房子
Houses nearby the riverside
江边市场一角 Market at riverside
江边市场一角
Market at riverside
施洞的清水江 Qingshui River at Shidong
施洞的清水江
Qingshui River at Shidong
平日里,独木龙舟就放在长亭里 In normal days, the dragon boat is kept in a pavilion
平日里,独木龙舟就放在江边的长亭里
In normal days, the dragon boat is kept in a pavilion near riverside
江上有吊桥 Hanging bridge on the river
江上有吊桥
Hanging bridge on the river
过江到对面,就遇到牛大哥 Saw buffaloes after crossing the bridge to other side
过江到对面,就遇到牛大哥
Saw buffaloes after crossing the bridge to other side
对面江完全不一样,随街都可看见鸡只跑动(是的,不是走,是跑啊),水牛也没人看管。 Opposite the river is totally different. Chicken are running (yes, not walking but running) on the street, and nobody looking after buffaloes.
对面江完全不一样,随街都可看见鸡只跑动(是的,不是走,是跑啊),水牛也没人看管。
Opposite the river is totally different. Chicken are running (yes, not walking but running) on the street, and nobody looking after buffaloes.
将近天黑时的吊桥 Hanging bridge after dusk
将近天黑时的吊桥
Hanging bridge after dusk

交通/ Transportation:

  1. 有班车从凯里和台江直接到施洞。凯里到施洞的班车比较少,通常都在早上出发。如错过班车,可先到台江,然后转车去施洞。到台江的车几乎是一小时一班。最后一班从施洞回台江的车是下午3点半。 在凯里要注意的是,买了票就上车,别等票上时间到了才上车,因为班车坐满人就开了。我去年在凯里买2点50分开往台江的车票(票价18.50元),幸好2点半就上车了,才坐下不到一分钟,车就开走了,一小时十分钟后到达台江。在台江不用先买车票到施洞,上车后才买(票价18元),车坐满人就开的。我那时也是上车后没多久,车上坐满了人,4点钟车就开始出发到施洞。
    There are public buses from Kaili and Taijiang going directly to Shidong. But there are not many buses going to Shidong from Kaili or vice versa. The buses usually depart in the morning from Kaili to Shidong. If you have missed the bus at Kaili, can take bus to Taijiang first, then change another bus from Taijiang to Shidong. The bus to Taijiang is quite frequent, about one hour once. The last bus to return from Shidong to Taijing is 3.30pm. After purchase the bus ticket at Kaili, get on the bus immediately, don’t wait until the departure time printed on bus ticket. This is because the bus will leave after full seated with passengers no matter what time it is. Last year at Kaili, I bought a bus ticket to Taijiang (ticket price CNY 18.50) that printed with departure time 2.50pm. Luckily I got on the bus at 2.30pm. Just a minute after I sat down, the bus had left the terminal and then reached Taijiang after 1 hour 10 min. At Taijiang, no need to purchase bus ticket over the counter, only purchase after get on the bus to Shidong (ticket price CNY 18). The bus will leave to Shidong after it is fully seated.
  2. 从凯里或台江到镇远的班车有经过施洞,可先到施洞,然后再去镇远古镇玩。或先去镇远古镇玩,然后才从镇远过来施洞。从镇远那边过来的话,虽山路崎岖,但可远观施洞镇被群山围绕的景色。
    The bus from Kaili or Taijiang that is heading to Zhenyuan Ancient Town will pass by Shidong. Can visit Shidong first then to Zhenyuan Ancient Town. Or, visit to Zhenyuan first then only come to Shidong. If you come to Shidong from Zhenyuan, you can view how the Shidong town surrounding by mountains.
  3. 如果嫌搭班车麻烦不自由,可以自驾。现在科技发达,有导航不怕迷路,哪里都可以去。因为中国不接受国际驾照,外国人除非持有中国驾照,不然是不能在中国驾驶的。
    If you think public bus is not flexible, then can self-drive a car. With GPS nowadays, you can go anywhere with lower risk of getting lost. However, China does not accept International Driving License. There is no way for a foreigner to drive in China unless he/she holds a driving license issued at China.
  4. 另一个方法就是包车。我今年第二次到施洞的时候,碰巧遇上五一,向杉乡旅行社包车的,一天500元,油费和过路费另付,师傅的吃住也要照料。杉乡旅行社的杨师傅是贵州黎平人,对黔东南的路线也算熟悉,为人随和,也非常尽责,值得推荐。到贵州玩,可以联络杉乡旅行社(电话:0855 8250371,QQ: 1594127901,网址:http://lxs.cncn.com/65233)或杨师傅本人(手机:15286346045)。
    Another option is to rent a car with driver. My second visit to Shidong this year was during the Labour Day long public holidays in China. I got car rental services from Shanxiang Travel, CNY 500 per day, petrol cost and toll were paid separately, and had to take care of meal and accommodation for the driver. Yang, the driver from Shanxiang Travel, came from Liping in Guizhou. He is familiar with the road and route in southeast part of Guizhou. He is also very friendly and responsible. I will recommend him if anyone likes to visit Guizhou and doesn’t require English speaking guide.

住宿/ Accommodation:

  1. 可以住在当地的农家乐,条件稍微差一些,没空调和热水,当然也没WiFi,但还是可以的。我去年第一次到施洞时,就住在塘龙寨的其中一家农家乐,一晚60元一个床位。偏寨也有农家乐,老屯则没有。
    Can stay at the local homestay, but limited facilities, no air-cond and hot water, and of course no WiFi. However, it’s still acceptable. Last year when I was first came here, I stayed in a homestay at Tanglong village, CNY 60 per bed per night. Pianzhai also has homestay, but Laotun doesn’t have any.
  2. 施洞大道两旁店铺有几家招待所,但要条件好一点的就要再往前转左,有几家酒店。我两个月前第二次到施洞时是住在铭荣酒店的。铭荣酒店做的菜很不错,价钱也实惠,值得推荐。至于住宿费,因为是节日期间,房间180元一晚,有WiFi、空调和厕所。房间无论是两张床还是三张床也都是180元一晚。刚好他们全把床铺都换新,住进时还有淡淡的杉木味。
    Shoplot along the main street has several hostels. Further down the street and turn left, there are also a number of hotels that have better facilities. I stayed at Mingrong Hotel just two months ago during my second visit to Shidong. The hotel food is quite nice and price is reasonable. Due to the festive season, the room rate was CNY 180 per night no matter it’s a room with two or three beds. The room has WiFi, air-cond, and toilet. Just happened they just changed all beds to the new one, the room was filled with pine smell.
  3. 也可住台江县城,选择比较多。但节日期间,还是住施洞比较方便。
    Also can stay in Taijiang county city, it has more options. But during festival, it’s better to stay in Shidong.
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