苗族的龙舟节是为纪念一位屠龙英雄,在每年的农历五月二十五至二十七日,一连三天举行。而华人汉族的龙舟节则是在端午节为纪念屈原而设的其中一个活动。这两个节日,无论是历史来源还是庆典活动,都是完全不一样的。

The Dragon Boat Festival of Miao tribe commemorates a hero who killed a dragon and it is held on the 25th to 27th day of 5th month in lunar calendar. Whereas the Dragon Boat Festival of Chinese commemorates Qu Yuan and it is held on the 5th day of 5th month in lunar calendar. They are totally different in history and activities of the festival.

因源自施洞,所以每年的龙舟节都会在施洞盛大举行。苗族的龙舟非常独特,是一条长长的独木舟,旁边另外绑着一条小的独木舟。节日的第一天是祭拜和龙舟下水仪式,第二天是亲友们赠送礼品的日子,第三天才比赛划龙舟。

The festival has its origins in Shidong and it celebrates there every year too. The dragon boat of Miao tribe is very different and special. It’s a very long canoe with another smaller canoe tight together. First day of the festival is praying and boat launching ceremonies. Second day is the day for friends and relatives to send gifts. Third day is the dragon boat competition day.

施洞的独木龙舟 Dragon boat in Shidong
施洞的独木龙舟
Dragon boat in Shidong
第二天,龙舟都聚集在老屯让亲友送上礼品祝福。 On second day, the dragon boats gather at Laotun to receive blesses and gifts from  friends and families.
第二天,龙舟都聚集在老屯让亲友送上礼品祝福。
On second day, the dragon boats gather at Laotun to receive blesses and gifts from friends and families.
到施洞清水江边观看龙舟比赛的小女孩 Little girl goes to riverside at Shidong to watch dragon boat competition
到施洞清水江边观看龙舟比赛的小女孩
Little girl goes to riverside at Shidong to watch dragon boat competition

据说,每年的节目活动和地点都千篇一律。但是,最好还是向当地人询问以防万一,因每天的活动都不在同一个地点举行。我去年到施洞看龙舟节的时候,活动安排是这样的:

According to the locals, the activities and venues are the same each year. However, it’s better to ask the local in case there is a change as the activities can be held at different places. When I was in Shidong last year, the activities were scheduled as follows:

  • 第一天:在施洞镇上的清水江边,即靠近市集那里举行祭拜和下水仪式。镇上的塘龙寨在傍晚开始有击鼓和歌舞表演,都是村民自己排演的,比那些带有商业性质要付费看的民族歌舞表演传统好看多了。在场的也有来学习考察苗族歌舞的人,可见施洞这里的传统苗族歌舞的重要和影响。不论老少,都会打扮漂亮等着登场表演。因人数太多,表演往往被中断,好让每个姊妹都有机会上场。当然,如果表演出众,还是能从头到尾表演完毕不被中断的。即便把大部分的表演半途中断,节目还是延续到凌晨两点方罢。所以,要看多久就待多久,没人会赶你走,就怕你没精神待到这么晚。
    First day: At riverside nearby the wet market, they have the praying and boat launching ceremonies. At evening time, the drumming, dancing, and singing performance start at Tanglong village within the Shidong township. The performance is done by the villagers themselves. As compared to the commercialized performance, this is much more fun and traditional. There are also people come here to learn and study the traditional dance of Miao tribe. No matter old or young, they will dress up and wait to be there to perform. Due to too many people waiting to perform, the individual performance has to be interrupted and discontinued if it’s not attractive. Although most of the performances have to be interrupted so as to give opportunity to all ladies to perform, the entire performance activities still have to continue until 2am only can reach to the end.
  • 第二天:在老屯的大街上,有一条桥,桥下就是龙舟聚集的地方。下午大约两点钟,各村寨会把龙舟划过来这里等待送礼品的亲友,然后把礼品都挂在龙舟上。挂满后又划回村寨放下礼品,然后划回去老屯,让另一批亲友送礼。如此来回数次,一直到傍晚大约六点结束。另外,村民的歌舞表演又在傍晚开始了,但场地却换去杨家寨,不在施洞了。
    Second Day: There is a bridge at the main street in Laotun. Under the bridge, that’s the place where dragon boats are gathering. About 2pm, dragon boats from different villages start to gather here and wait for their friends and families to send gifts. The gifts will then hang on the boat until it is full of gifts. Then, they will paddle back to their villages to remove the gifts and paddle to Laotun again to let other friends and families to send gifts. They repeat this for several rounds until 6pm. At the same time, the dancing and singing performance by the villagers start in evening too. However, the venue has changed from Shidong to Yangjiazhai.
  • 第三天:下午两点,所有村寨的龙舟开始聚集在施洞镇上的清水江边。三点才开始龙舟比赛。
    Third day: At 2pm, all dragon boats from different villages gather at Shidong riverside. At 3pm, the dragon boat competition only starts.
即使已不再年轻,但还是可以跳舞娱宾。 Although they are not young anymore, but still can dance for entertainment.
即使已不再年轻,但还是可以击鼓跳舞娱宾。
Although they are not young anymore, but still can drum and dance for entertainment.
入夜后,还是很多人在看表演,一直到凌晨人群才逐渐散去。 At night, they are still a lot of people watching the performance. They only leave after midnight.
入夜后,还是很多人在看表演,一直到凌晨人群才逐渐散去。
At night, they are still a lot of people watching the performance. They only leave after midnight.
在老屯碰到有美女在美人靠化妆 Met a pretty lady in Laotun who was making up for the festival
在老屯碰到有美女在美人靠化妆
Met a pretty lady in Laotun who was making up for the festival
那个百褶裙制作费时,要一年半至两年左右。而且,穿上后就不能坐下。 The process to make the skirt is very time consuming, about 1.5 to 2 years. Moreover, the lady cannot sit down after wear this on.
那个百褶裙制作费时,要一年半至两年左右。而且,穿上后就不能坐下。
The process to make the skirt is very time consuming, about 1.5 to 2 years. Moreover, the lady cannot sit down after wearing this.
正在戴银制凤冠的苗族女人 Wearing the silver phoenix hairpin
正在戴银制凤冠的苗族女人
Wearing the silver phoenix hairpin
主动要求我替她拍照的苗族女人。隔了一段时间,我亲自回去老屯送上照片,把她家的长辈感动不已。 This Miao lady asked me to take photo for her. I was then went back to Laotun to deliver the photo. Her parents were so touching and appreciating my kindness.
主动要求我替她拍照的苗族女人。隔了一段时间,我亲自回去老屯送上照片,把她家的长辈感动不已。
This Miao lady asked me to take photo for her. I was then went back to Laotun to deliver the photo. Her parents were so touching and appreciating my kindness.
穿着传统服装,从村寨走到江边,准备划龙舟的苗族小子。 The Miao guy is walking from the village to riverside with traditional costume to prepare for the dragon boat paddling.
穿着传统服装,从村寨走到江边,准备划龙舟的苗族小子。
The Miao guy is walking from the village to riverside with traditional costume to prepare for the dragon boat paddling.
就像古代人出征似的 Just like the ancient people prepare for war
就像古代人出征似的
Just like the ancient people prepare for war
准备让亲友送上礼品的龙舟 Get ready for friends and families to send gifts
准备让亲友送上礼品的龙舟
Get ready for friends and families to send gifts

交通/ Transportation::

  • 上一篇已说明怎么前往施洞
    Previous post has mentioned about how to go to Shidong
  • 对于没自驾或包车的,可搭当地的面包车来回老屯。节日期间,面包车多得很,随手招就行了,5元单程。当然,也可搭台江或凯里的班车到老屯,也是5元单程。
    If you are not driving or renting a car, you can take the local shuttle van go to and back from Laotun. During the festival, it has a lot of shuttle van, so just wave your hand to get in, CNY5 one-way. Of course, you can hop on the local bus that goes to Taijiang or Kaili as it passes by Laotun, also RMB5 to reach Laotun.

住宿/ Accommodation:

  • 上一篇已说明施洞的住宿
    Previous post has mentioned about the accommodation in Shidong

其它/ Others:

  • 在老屯可到当地人的家作客吃饭,人数多的话就给一些钱请他们做饭。当地苗族人都好客,喜欢请客人喝自家酿的米酒,味道挺好,一定要试。
    Can visit the local house to eat, but if you are in a group of people, then it’s better to pay for the food. The local people are very friendly and like to treat the visitors with homemade rice wine. The taste of the rice wine is very nice and it’s a must-try item in Laotun.
  • 因房里昏暗,女人们都会到门口光亮处的美人靠化妆,可以取得她们允许拍照。
    As the room is too dark, the local lady usually make up at the doorway. Get the permission before you shoot photo.
  • 当地人不会拒绝镜头。但如果可以,请过后寄上照片给他们,他们会非常感谢你的。所以拍了照片后,就向他们拿地址和电话。这电话很重要,因为当地的房子都没门牌,这照片寄不寄到他们家,全靠这电话啊!
    The local people are not camera shy. But if possible, please send them the picture as they will appreciate you for it. Therefore, please get the address and phone number from them after the photo session. The phone number is very important as it’s the key for them to receive the picture. This is due to the houses don’t have any house number, so the postman needs to call them up to get the letter/ picture.
  • 建议穿短裤拖鞋到江边拍摄,还必须备有胶袋或特制的相机雨套把相机(尤其是贵重的单反和镜头)套住以作保护,因为空气都弥漫着鞭炮所引起的碎纸片和灰。
    Recommend to wear shorts and slippers to take pictures at riverside. Also, bring along a plastic bag or camera rain coat to wrap your camera (especially the expensive DSLR and lens) as protection, because the air is full of debris from firecrackers.
看,有那么多的人等着送上礼品,还放鞭炮。 Look, so many people are waiting there to send gift and play firecracker.
看,有那么多的人等着送上礼品,还放鞭炮。
Look, so many people are waiting there to send gift and play firecracker.
有送猪的 They are people sending pig as gift
有送猪的
They are people sending pig as gift
有送旗的 Send flag too
有送旗的
Send flag too
有敬酒的 Toast in rice wine
有敬酒的
Toast in rice wine
最常见的礼是鹅,较罕见的事钱币。 The most common gift is goose, and the rare one is bank notes.
最常见的礼是鹅,较罕见的是钱币。
The most common gift is goose, and the rare one is bank notes.
看那鞭炮的威力,还真的要小心啊! Look at the power of firecracker, must take care of yourself.
看那鞭炮的威力,还真的要小心啊!
Look at the power of firecracker, must take care of yourself.
挂满礼物破浪而去 Leave with full of gifts
满载而归
Leave with full of gifts
在比赛当天负责敲锣的小男孩作女装打扮 The little boy who hits the gong on competition day is wearing lady costume
在比赛当天负责敲锣的小男孩作女装打扮
The little boy who hits the gong on competition day is wearing lady costume
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