比起中国内地其它古镇,镇远也许名气不大,但却是贵州四大古镇之首,地处险要,历来是兵家必争之地。因山势险峻,古时候运送物品主要都是靠水路经过镇远,然后才到其它地方。现在的镇远,水路已不甚重要。除了陆路,还有火车。所以,到镇远还算是方便的。

As compared to other ancient towns in China, Zhenyuan is not that popular. However, it’s the most famous ancient town in Guizhou province. It’s strategic location made it as the battlefield in history. Due to the mountains, the river was used to ship goods in ancient time. And Zhenyuan was an important port in Southwest China during ancient time. Nowadays, the river is not important anymore. It can be accessed easily with train and road transport now.

镇远的河景 River scenery at Zhenyuan
镇远的沿河景色
Scenery along the river at Zhenyuan
沿河夜景 Night scene along the river
沿河夜景
Night scene along the river

古城区靠山,有潕阳河流经古城区。沿河都是古色古香的建筑,最出名的是青龙洞、祝圣桥和天后宫。入夜后,古城区都会亮灯到半夜12点,要拍夜景还真的要抓紧时间。新大桥和祝圣桥那里的灯,大约每五秒变换一次颜色。要拍不同颜色的夜景,还得把握快门时间。

The ancient town is next to the mountain with Wuyang River crossing the town. Along the river are the old buildings and the most famous spots are Black Dragon Caves, Zhusheng Bridge, and Temple of Queen of Heaven. At night, the ancient town is lit up in garish colours until midnight. Therefore, the photo session has to be done before 12am. Also, the colour of the light nearby the New Bridge and Zhusheng Bridge is changing every 5 seconds. The shutter speed has to be set properly in order to capture different colour of the light.

几处景点包括祝圣桥在内都会在晚上亮起鲜艳夺目的灯光,大约每五秒就换一种颜色。 Several spots including Zhusheng Bridge will light up with garish lights at night. The colour changes almost every 5 seconds.
镇远的几处景点都会在晚上亮起鲜艳夺目的灯光,大约每五秒就换一种颜色。
Several spots in Zhenyuan will light up with garish lights at night. The colour of the light changes almost every 5 seconds.
桥下的小船 Small boats  under the bridge
桥下的小船
Small boats under the bridge
真人版孙悟空在镇远街头 Son Goku on a street at Zhenyuan
真人版孙悟空在镇远街头
Son Goku on a street at Zhenyuan

镇远古镇的景色不比相距不远的凤凰古镇差,一样有山有水有古建筑。虽然有人说凤凰比较好玩,但个人觉得镇远很好啊,它少了凤凰的吵闹和商业气息。而且,凤凰要买票进去,镇远是不需要的。来古镇玩,就是要像镇远这种平静古朴又美丽的古镇玩,要细细地品味才可以。

The scenery in Zhenyuan Ancient Town is not bad as compared with Phoenix Ancient Town that is not far away. Both places also have mountains, river, and ancient buildings. Although many people say that Phoenix Ancient Town is better, but I think Zhenyuan is much better. It doesn’t commercialized like Phoenix Ancient Town. Moreover, tourists need to pay admission fee to get into Phoenix, but Zhenyuan doesn’t require to pay anything to enter the town. I would say, an ancient town should look like Zhenyuan – a quiet and peaceful town but quaint and charming enough for tourists to wander around.

镇远的暮色时光 Dusk time at Zhenyuan
镇远的暮色时光
Dusk at Zhenyuan
摄于一所沿河的餐厅。镇远的菜色不错,最喜欢一道叫道家扣肉的菜,和客家扣肉相似,肥肉入口即化,吃多也不腻。 Taken at a restaurant
摄于一所沿河的餐厅。
Took this photo at a riverside restaurant
镇远的菜不错,最喜欢这个叫道家扣肉的菜,和客家人的梅菜扣肉相似度高,肥肉入口即化,吃而不腻。 Dish at Zhenyuan is quite nice, like this the most.
镇远的菜不错,最喜欢这个叫道家扣肉的菜,和客家人的梅菜扣肉相似度高,肥肉入口即化,非常好吃。
Dish at Zhenyuan is quite nice, like this one the most. This dish is similar with a dish from Hakka people. Can’t resist with the pork lard that melts in mouth.
背景就是青龙洞 The background is Black Dragon Caves
背景就是青龙洞
The background is Black Dragon Caves
祝圣桥 Zhusheng Bridge
祝圣桥
Zhusheng Bridge
镇远街头一角 Street on Zhenyuan
镇远街头一角
Street on Zhenyuan
镇远古城区有很多小巷子,比北京的胡同区更有味儿。 There are a lot of alleys in Zhenyuan Ancient Town, more attractive than the Hutong in Beijing.
镇远古城区有很多小巷子,比北京的胡同区更有味儿。
There are a lot of alleys in Zhenyuan Ancient Town, more attractive than the Hutong in Beijing.

在镇远还可去两个地方,一个是登石屏山看镇远全景,另一个是登长城。可惜我这次因时间太紧,不能到这两个地方登高望远。提议到镇远游玩,必须预留两天时间,一天是不够的。

There are two more places can be visited at Zhenyuan. The first one is to hike Shiping Hill to see the landscape of Zhenyuan, and the other one is the Great Wall. Unfortunately, I didn’t have much time to visit to these places. I would recommend to reserve 2 days for visiting Zhenyuan. One day is definitely not enough.

镇远附近还有两个景点可以去,一是到有小三峡之称的潕阳河坐船看两旁的山水,二是到铁溪看清澈见底又带青蓝色的溪流。

Nearby Zhenyuan, there are another two scenery spots to go. One is to go to Wuyang River to take a boat ride for the scenery view that is similar to Yangtze River. The other one is to go to Tie River to see the crystal clear river.

交通:

  • 有火车到镇远,火车站离古城区三公里左右,可搭公交车从火车站到古城区,公交车的终点站是祝圣桥,2元单程。
    Take train to Zhenyuan, the train station is just 3km away from the old town area. From the train station, take local bus to the old town, last stop of the bus is Zhusheng Bridge within the old town, CNY2 one-way.
  • 凯里和台江都有班车到镇远,只是班车走的是山路,要先经过好多个苗寨,包括施洞,才能到达镇远。凯里到台江需一小时,台江到施洞大约一个半小时,施洞到镇远大约一个小时。
    Kaili and Taijiang have buses to Zhenyuan, but the bus route is taking the hilly mountain road and will pass by several Miao villages, including Shidong, before reaching to Zhenyuan. From Kaili to Taijiang takes 1 hour, Taijiang to Shidong takes 1.5 hours, Shidong to Zhenyuan about 1 hour.
  • 古镇有公交车穿梭,走累了可以搭公交车,无论多远,都是2元单程。
    The old town has local bus. Get on the local bus when you are tiring of walk in the old town, CNY2 one-way.
  • 古城区不能随便停车,可把车停放在停车场,一个是免费的但无人看管,另一个是付费的但有人看管。
    There are designated places to park cars in the old town. There’s a free parking lot but no guards and a paid parking lot with guards.
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