贵州内有好多个民族生态村,有苗族、侗族、布依族和汉族的。而侗族生态村里最出名的要数堂安侗寨了。这都是因为这里有侗族地区唯一一座的生态博物馆,是中国和挪威的生态学专家合建的。可是,我在堂安的时候却找不着。听说这生态博物馆只是一间小小的木屋,问了好几个当地人沿路去找,却一直看不见这小木屋,无缘啊!

There are a lot of ethnic ecological villages in Guizhou province, encompassing ethnic Miao, Dong, Buyi, and Han. And among the Dong ecological villages, the most famous one is Tang’an village. This is due to Tang’an has the only ethnic Dong ecological museum in China that is built by the ecologists from both China and Norway. But when I was in Tang’an, I couldn’t find the museum. Heard this museum is just a small wooden house, but I had asked the local people along the road and still couldn’t see it!

到堂安的路上就已能看到景色不错的梯田 On the way to Tang'an can see beautiful rice terraces
到堂安的路上就已能看到景色不错的梯田
On the way to Tang’an can see beautiful rice terraces
在堂安村口坐着的老人 Old man at Tang'an
在堂安村口坐着的老人
Old man at Tang’an
在玩牌的老人 Old man playing cards
在玩牌的老人
Old man playing cards

至于为何专家们把堂安定为侗族生态村,而山脚下的肇兴和附近的洛香全都不是,答案在于堂安有丰富的侗族文化,以致影响周边的侗族村寨。也就是说,附近几个侗寨包括肇兴在内的文化传承是源自于堂安。和其它侗寨一样,堂安有鼓楼和风雨桥。除此之外,还有戏楼、吊脚楼、青石板路、古瓢井、古墓群等等。而这些古朴的建筑又和梯田融为一体,形成美丽的自然景色。

I’m sure you would wonder why the ecologists classified Tang’an as Dong eco village, but not the nearby Zhaoxing and Luoxiang. The reason is because Tang’an has rich culture of ethnic Dong and it has affected the surrounding Dong villages. That means, the culture from Zhaoxing and the other nearby Dong villages is came from Tang’an. Just like the other Dong villages, Tang’an has drum tower and Fengyu (means wind and rain) bridge. It also has theater, stilt house, flagstone path, well, and ancient tombs. And all these old buildings and rice terraces blend together naturally and beautifully.

堂安的戏楼和青石板路 The theater and flagstone path in Tang'an
堂安的戏楼和青石板路
The theater and flagstone path in Tang’an
堂安的吊脚楼 Stilt house in Tang'an
右边是吊脚楼
The one at the right side is a stilt house
这就是古瓢井了 The ancient well
这就是古瓢井了
The ancient well
民居与梯田美丽地融为一体 The houses and rice terraces blend together naturally and beautifully
民居与梯田美丽地融为一体
The houses and rice terraces blend together naturally and beautifully

中国内地的摄影人都说到堂安要拍夕阳西下的梯田,到加榜就要拍旭日东升的梯田。以此可见,堂安梯田虽然比不上加榜梯田的规模,但还是值得一看的。当日天气不佳,接近傍晚时分还是乌云遮天,日落是看不了了,却无意看见远处的肇兴有火灾。与我同行的朋友担忧会延烧到我们住的那时花开驿站,但火灾地点与酒店有好大段的距离,所以我大派定心丸那是不会发生的。后来回到肇兴就听说这场火灾烧了两间房子,幸好无人伤亡。

The photographers in China appraise that Tang’an has beautiful sunset and Jiabang has beautiful sunrise. Although Tang’an rice terraces are not sizable as compared to Jiabang rice terraces, but it has its own charm too. It was a bad weather when we were there, no beautiful sunset to be seen but accidentally we saw the fire in Zhaoxing even though we were far away from Tang’an. My friend who travelled with me was so worried that the hotel we stayed at Zhaoxing might have affected from the fire, but the location of the fire was far from our hotel. For sure it’s no impact to us. However, the fire had burnt down 2 houses. Luckily, no one was hurt from the fire.

堂安梯田 - 因还没到插秧时期,所以都是水 Rice terraces in Tang'an - It's not yet the rice seedlings planting season and hence, only water in the terraces
堂安梯田 – 因还没到插秧时期,所以都是水
Rice terraces in Tang’an – It’s not yet the rice seedlings planting season and hence, only water in the terraces
箭头所指就是肇兴火灾现场地点 The arrow points to the location of the fire in Zhaoxing
箭头所指就是肇兴火灾现场地点
The arrow points to the location of the fire in Zhaoxing

我们在堂安等日落时巧遇一个从广东来的摄影团队,领队陈师傅怂恿我们必须要等下去,说一定会出现火烧云。但等着等着,就下起大雨来了,火烧云当然就无缘看见了,只看到好多只落汤鸡狼狈跑上车。下山时忽然刮起大风,夹着暴雨,还吹起浓雾来。因堂安的山路又弯又窄,加上能视度非常低,为了安全起见,我们的司机杨师傅就果断地把车停在一旁。

When we were waiting for sunset at Tang’an, we met a group of photographers from Guangdong province. The photographer group leader, Mr. Chen, advised us to wait longer to see the burning cloud. But after that, the rain became heavier and for sure no chance to see the burning cloud. What I saw was those photographers ran to the bus like drenched chicken. Just after a while our car drove down the hill, the storm broke. Not only that, the thick fog had caused poor vision. As the hilly road in Tang’an is very narrow, our driver Mr. Yang has to stop the car at one side for safety reason.

可是,这风大得好像连我们坐的车都能吹走,那车身一直在摇,大家都很不安。杨师傅说不能一直呆在那里了,要尽快下山,要不然以那样大的暴风雨可能会引起路塌、落石、倒树等意外事件,所以只要风稍微弱下就动车走,风强就停车。就这样车子停了好几次,终于平安地回到肇兴。

However, the strong wind seemed like could blow away our car. Our car kept on swung and this really made us worried. Mr. Yang told us that we couldn’t stay there anymore, had to go downhill to Zhaoxing as soon as possible. Otherwise, the fierce storm may cause the road to collapse, rocks and trees may fall down too. He said the car had to move if the wind became weaker and the car had to stop if the wind became strong. Therefore, the car was then stop-and-move for several times until we reached Zhaoxing. Thank God, we are safe!

交通/ Transportation:

从肇兴可包车上去堂安,基本上走在肇兴大街就会有人问你要不要包车去堂安。我随口问问价钱,是160元半天,应该可以减到120元的。我们是通过旅行社包车游走黔东南的,所以不用另外包车上堂安。当然,也可以从肇兴徒步到堂安。如果我是一个人来这,一定会徒步上去的。

One can get chartered car service from Zhaoxing to Tang’an. Basically when you walk on the main street in Zhaoxing, there will be people approach you for chartered car service. It’s CNY160 for half day, but I guess it can be bargained until CNY120. As we already had chartered car service from tour agency to travel around Southeast Guizhou region, we didn’t need to get a separate car to Tang’an. Of course, you can walk from Zhaoxing to Tang’an. If I come alone, i will walk too.

住宿/ Accommodation:

在堂安没看见任何旅馆酒店,一般就住在山脚下的肇兴。

I didn’t see any hotel or guest house in Tang’an, visitors are usually staying at Zhaoxing.

在暴雨来临前的一刻,从堂安远眺肇兴 Overlook Zhaoxing from Tang'An before the storm
在暴雨来临前的一刻,从堂安远眺肇兴
Overlook Zhaoxing from Tang’An before the storm
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