岜沙是一个苗族村落,离从江县城大约八公里。这里的苗族都住在传统木屋,还维持着传统习俗。岜沙的苗族男人是唯一能在中国合法持枪的一群人。但是,他们不能把枪带出岜沙,通常只能在岜沙用来打猎、庆典和给游客表演。

Basha is a Miao village that is about 8km away from Congjiang county town. The people are living in traditional wooden houses and still practicing old tradition. The Basha men are the only group of people in China that is permitted to carry guns legally. However, they are not allowed to carry the guns outside of Basha. These guns are only used for hunting, ceremony, and performance for visitors.

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岜沙到处都是传统苗族木屋。
Traditional wooden house in Basha.
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穿着传统服装的岜沙苗族女人。
Basha lady in traditional costume.
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岜沙最长老也最长知识的族人,据说是他把旅游业带进岜沙的。
The oldest and most knowledgeable man in Basha, heard he’s the one who brought tourism into Basha.

岜沙男子拥有独特的发型,就像以前的日本人那样,把长发盘成发髻绑在头上。据说,日本人还一度以为他们的祖先来自岜沙,曾经派人来这做考察和研究。

The Basha men also have unique hairstyle that looks like ancient Japanese. They have long hair and twisted hair in bun on top of their heads. The rumour says that Japanese once believe that their ancestors were came from Basha and sent a team of people to do research there.

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岜沙男子从小就留长发,然后把长发绑成发髻。
Basha men have long hair since young, and then twisted hair in bun.

岜沙人会在婴儿出生时种一棵树,也相信他们祖先的灵魂会附在树上。所以,他们不会随意砍伐树木,村里的树林有很多古树。

Basha people will plant a tree when a baby is born. They also believe the soul of their ancestor is attached on the tree. Hence, they don’t simply cut the trees and there are a lot old trees in the village.

现在的岜沙已不是只靠种田养活,他们也发展旅游业。村里已建有客栈和餐厅,还排演舞蹈来给游客看。旺季时,一天还能有四场表演,早上八点半和十点半,然后是下午两点和四点。当然,你必须要付钱才能看表演的。

Nowadays, they are not only relied on agriculture for living, they are also developing tourism with guesthouses, restaurants, and also special performance to welcome visitors. During peak season, they will have four performance shows in a day, 08:30 and 10:30 in morning, and 14:00 and 16:00 in afternoon. Of course, you need to pay for it.

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枪手们纷纷起舞。
The gunmen start to dance。
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表演的其中一幕鸣枪仪式。
Gunfire in performance show.
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表演的其中一幕。
A scene of the performance.

我和另外三位朋友当时是从肇兴过去的,早上九点出发,大约十点半才到达。因为走错岔路,结果迟到古芦笙堂,刚错过了剃头表演。表演大约11点20分结束,游客们就抢着和穿着传统服装表演的岜沙男子们合照,但大部分都会索取小费的。像下面照片这一个,我们四人合共给了50元人民币来让我们任拍。

I went there together with another 3 friends. We left from Zhaoxing on 9am, about 10.30am only reached to Basha. Then because of we walked to the wrong branch road, we were late to arrive the Old Lusheng Hall. The show had already started and we missed the hair shaving performance. Just after the show ended at around 11.20am, almost all of the visitors went to the Basha men to take photographs, and some of these Basha men asked for photographing charges. Like the one in picture below, four of us paid a total of CNY 50 to him for a photograph session with us.

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他知道我是带头,所以直接冲着我来。得到同行朋友的同意,我们四人付了他50元让我们任拍。
He knew I was the team leader, so he came to me directly. After getting permission from friends, we paid him a total of CNY 50 for a photograph session.
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另外一张侧身的。
Another photo from side.

去岜沙之前听说这里与世隔绝、村民都还保持着几百年前的装束,而且还是中国最后一个枪手部落才来的。去了之后,个人觉得不怎么一回事。一来,这里的梯田没有同在从江县里的加榜漂亮。二来,这里的苗族木屋不及郎德和西江,连偏寨的也比它来得好看。三来,这里的苗人也太过商业化了。外表看似朴实,骨子里却商业化到极点,连小孩也教育到开口向经过的游客讨钱,嘴里一直喊着“给我一块”!

Before I went there, I heard Basha is a place that is isolated from the world, the people are still maintaining the hundreds years old traditions and costumes, and they are the last gunman tribe in China. After I went there, I really don’t think this is a good place to visit. First, the rice terraces here are not as beautiful as Jiabang, which is also located within Congjiang county. Second, the Miao wooden houses here are not as pretty as those I saw in Langde, Xijiang, and Pianzhai. Third, the Basha people are too commercialized. Isolated from the world? I don’t think so! They look simple, but they always ask for money. The kids are also taught that way, they ask money from the visitors who are just bypassing them!

门票:没有正式的门票,都是村民自己收的。一般是60至80元,有时甚至不用付任何费用就能进去,看运气吧!我们就是不用给门票就能直接进去的。不过,看表演是要给钱的,30元一人。

Admission: No formal admission. They may charge CNY 60 to CNY 80 per person, and sometime they may not charge you too. We were lucky enough without to pay anything to enter the village. However, you need to pay for the performance show, which is CNY 30 per person.

交通:没有公交,但可以搭充当公共交通的面包车,都是岜沙人自己开的。可以在从江汽车站外左边,约五百米处的桥头搭这些面包车。5到10元一人,先问一下司机多少钱一人会比较好,如开价太高,就讨价吧!

也可包车或坐三轮车过去。

Transportation:

No public bus available, but can take a local van (which is operated as “public” transport) that shares with local people. The van is operated by Basha men, and they usually gather at the bridge that is about 500m away from Congjiang Bus Terminal. Charge is ranging from CNY 5 to CNY 10 per person, so is better to ask for the charge and bargain with the driver first.

You can also rent a car or trishaw to go to Basha.

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刚表演完毕,在一旁聚集的岜沙男子。
After the show, the Basha men gather aside.
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他们把长枪穿进芦笙,然后把芦笙和枪扛在肩上走。
They put the gun in the middle of lusheng (a type music instrument made from bamboo), and then carry on the shoulder while walking.
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岜沙女人喜欢坐在树下做刺绣。
Basha lady likes to sit under the tree to do embroidery.
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岜沙岔路多,先看一下简单的地图走到古芦笙堂看表演会比较好。
Basha has a lot of branch roads. It’s better to refer to the map before heading to the Old Lusheng Hall.
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