位于打扪的藏传佛院叫心意佛院,远远就能瞧见那十三层高的佛塔与立于山边的巨型站佛。佛院初建于1976年,后来扩建,成了现在的模样。因是藏传佛院,所以不难发觉西藏色彩,像转经轮和彩色经幡等等。只是,佛院建筑即有汉化影子,也有本土色彩,从外观来看,并不凸显为藏传佛院。

The Tibetan temple in Tambun is called Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple. Surrounding the temple are the iconic 13-storey pagoda and a large standing Buddha Statue. The temple was first built in 1976, then expanded with pagoda and other buildings. You can find the Tibetan prayer wheels and the colourful prayer flags in the temple. However, architecture of the temple does not have significant Tibetan elements.

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因抵达时下着细雨,我用我手上的 Moto G 手机拍摄心意佛院的外观。
As it was drizzling, I used my Moto G mobile phone to snap the outlook of Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple.
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从佛塔内向外拍立于山边的站佛。
Standing Buddha statue at the hill side.
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只有藏传佛教才会把佛像漆上蓝色,听说药师佛就是蓝色佛像。
Only the Tibetan Buddhists will have blue Buddha statue, heard that the Medicine Buddha statue is supposed to be in blue colour.

之前曾读过一篇本地的英文报导,说那佛塔里的颜色过于鲜艳,设计又庸俗。但我个人挺喜欢佛塔内部搭配的色彩,主要是运用红、黄、蓝、青、白这五种颜色。况且,佛教教旗就是五色旗啊,它只是把五色旗里的橙色换成青色。我也并不认为内部设计庸俗,反而觉得它的设计特别,像是有含意似的。

I read from an English article from local newspaper previously about this temple. That article said the interior pagoda is too striking with gaudy colours and kitsch décor. I’m not really agree with it. I like the colourful interior décor and it seems like having some meanings. The interior pagoda is painted with 5 colours, which are red, yellow, blue, green, and white. Similar with the Buddhist flag that is also 5 colours, it just changed the orange colour to green in the pagoda.

佛塔是六角塔,所以塔本身就象征六道轮回。塔里每一层每一角都有一个六角形的平台,像是提醒信徒们要多做善事,以免轮回于恶道中。当然,这都是我的观点,并没有和心意佛院证实过塔里六角平台设计的寓意。

The hexagonal pagoda symbolizes samsara in Buddhism. The samsara is a belief about rebirth cycle that occurs in six realms of existence. Each corner at each level in the pagoda also has a hexagon design platform. This hexagon design platform is like reminding the devotees to do more good things in order to rebirth in good realms. Of course, this is just my view point and I have not confirmed with the temple management about the meaning of hexagon design platform.

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佛塔内部采中空设计,每一层都有六角平台。
Inside the pagoda is hollow atrium, each level also has hexagon design platforms.
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佛塔内还有另一尊巨型站佛,但双手是张开的。
Inside the pagoda has another huge standing Buddha statue, but both hands are opened.
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塔内巨佛前相呼应的佛像。
Buddha statues in front of the huge standing Buddha.
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塔内的巨型转经轮。
Mega prayer wheel inside the pagoda.
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塔内当然少不了传统的转经轮。
Traditional Tibetan prayer wheels inside the pagoda.

心意佛院还有巨型唐卡,只是要见唐卡一面,一年只有两次机会,那就是“晒大佛”的时候。每年的卫塞节(即农历四月十五这一天,也有些地方称这天为浴佛节)和药师佛佛诞(即农历九月二十九),心意佛院都会在中午的时候把绘有巨佛的唐卡打开“晒大佛”,然后举行祈福仪式。这“晒大佛”的唐卡都是两幅不一样的唐卡,分别在卫塞节和药师佛佛诞打开。也就是说,一副唐卡,一年只打开一次“晒太阳”。

Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple also has gigantic thangka, which is a giant scroll painted with Buddha images. However, visitors only have two chances in a year to see the thangka. The first chance is on the Wesak Day (also called Buddha Bathing Festival, which is on the 15th day of 4th month in lunar calendar) and the second chance is on the Medicine Buddha Festival (which is on the 29th day of 9th month in lunar calendar). During noon time on the festival day itself, they will unfurl the thangka for sunning and blessing ceremony. However, they will unfurl two different thangka on both festivals. That means, a thangka only has a chance in a year to be unfurled under the sun.

不过,有时候也有例外的,像下雨天的时候。如果遇上了,那心意佛院就不会搬出唐卡举行“晒大佛”了。我今年卫塞节去的时候就不巧遇上了下雨天。虽然中午已停雨,但地上潮湿,那人工绘制的唐卡当然是不能受潮了,所以不能把它搬出来举行“晒大佛”。没能看见唐卡,却看到了藏传金刚舞,就是俗称喇嘛舞的藏传宗教舞蹈。这回不用专程飞到西藏,在打扪就能看见了,所以还是值得一去打扪转转心意佛院的。

Sometimes it also has exception. If it’s a rainy day, they will not unfurl the thangka for sunning ceremony. Just like the rainy day on Wesak Day this year, they didn’t hold the sunning ceremony although the rain had stopped around noon time. This is due to the handmade thangka cannot be damped and has to be unfurled on dry ground. Though I couldn’t witness the thangka sunning ceremony, but I witnessed the Tibetan ritual masked dances performed by the monks. This round, I don’t really need to fly to Tibet to watch the dance, I can easily watch it in Malaysia itself.

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信徒在卫塞节那天背佛消灾转运。 The devotees carrying Buddha statue on Wesak Day to eradicate bad karma.
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戴着面具跳金刚舞的喇嘛领着背佛的信徒走转运路线。
Monks with masks in ritual dance and lead the devotees who are carrying the Buddha statue to walk pilgrimage route.
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因不知他们所走的路线,加上现场人多混乱,所以我无法掌握从何拍摄金刚舞。
The site was a bit messy due to too many people, and I didn’t know their dancing route. Hence, I couldn’t really capture the ritual dance.
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吹着牛角与跳金刚舞的喇嘛,后来才发现他们都是赤着脚,真的辛苦了。 Monks in ritual dance and with Tibetan horn. I was then discovered they were in bare foot.

只是,要去一趟心意佛院,需驾车去,没有公交。佛院外都是柚子园,还有几个水池,这一点要注意咯。因为,如果在Google Maps 打上中文“心意佛院”,它会把你带到一个社区,地图上会显示那里没有水池,那你就能及时发觉走错路。我有几位朋友就是这样被 Google Maps 忽悠了,呵呵。如果打上“Tambun Tibetan Temple”,Google Maps 才会把你带到真正的心意佛院。当然,打上 GPS:4.603667, 101.154758,任何导航也应该不会出错的。

Just that, there is no public transport available to go to Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple. The Tibetan temple is surrounded by pomelo farms and several ponds. Type “Tambun Tibetan Temple” on Google Maps, the app will bring you there. Of course, the safest way is to type the GPS: 4.603667, 101.154758 on the navigation apps or devices.

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这是今年到心意佛院时记下的 GPS。
The recorded GPS when I visited Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple this year.
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