观塘位于东九龙,一般给人的印象就是一个工业旧区,很少人去观塘说要游览玩耍的。当然,吃货和摄友却是例外哦!

Kwun Tong is located at East Kowloon and is known as an industrial area. Therefore, not a lot people will think of going to Kwun Tong for sightseeing. However, it’s a popular place for foodies and photographers.

因为香港政府近年来重新规划发展观塘,可以翻新的旧楼就翻新,不能翻新的就拆掉,所以现在的观塘已正在脱变成一个商贸区。再加上香港政府要在东九龙试跑“聪明城市” 的概念,将来势必会有更多的重建计划在观塘进行。

In recent years, Hong Kong government is re-developing Kwun Tong as a business district. Those old buildings that could refurbish have already refurbished, those couldn’t refurbish have already demolished. Moreover, the Hong Kong government has selected East Kowloon to run the “Smart City” concept and hence, there will be more development projects in Kwun Tong moving forward.

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从宏利金融中心通向观塘码头的人行天桥。
Pedestrian bridge that links between Manulife Financial Center and Kwun Tong Ferry Pier.

这也意味着更多的旧式仓库、旧工业大厦和旧楼将会消失,而另一边又可看到绿化和美化观塘的工程。在观塘码头旁的海滨花园就是前几年改建完工的美化工程之一。

This will also mean that more old garages and warehouses, old industrial buildings, and old flats will be disappeared from Kwun Tong. At the same time, there will be more landscaping projects at Kwun Tong. One of the completed landscaping projects is the Kwun Tong Promenade that is next to Kwun Tong Ferry Pier.

Sunset from Kwun Tong Public Pier
在观塘码头看日落。
Sunset from the Kwun Tong Ferry Pier.
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黄昏时的观塘码头。
Dusk at Kwun Tong Ferry Pier.
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开往西湾河的渡轮,后面就是启德邮轮码头。
Ferry to Sai Wan Ho, behind the ferry is Kai Tak Ferry Pier.

观塘海滨花园又称观塘海滨长廊,前身是废纸回收装运和货物起卸区域。改建后的海滨花园设有甲板步道、草坪、小型表演台、广场和一个塔楼作为地标。这塔楼以废纸回收为主题,却在后来被香港网民吐槽为艺术抄袭作品,被选为十大核突地标。

Kwun Tong Promenade is known as a waterfront park and is built on the site of former Kwun Tong Public Cargo Working Area that was home to many waste paper recycling businesses. The waterfront park has wooden walkway, lawn, amphitheater, plaza, and a landmark tower. The design of the tower was inspired by the waste paper bundles, but the design was then unveiled by netizen as an art plagiarism and the tower itself was chosen as one of the worst landmarks in Hong Kong.

虽然如此,这塔楼在五颜六色的灯光亮起后,还是挺漂亮的。围绕着塔楼的广场在每晚六点至十点,每隔半小时会有一场水雾效果的音乐灯光表演。个人觉得这灯光表演马马虎虎,反而不及这里的日落景色和维多利亚港夜景。

However, the tower is quite beautiful after it lights up with garish lights at night. Every 30 minutes from 6pm to 10pm at the plaza surrounding the tower, there will be a music lighting show with mists of water droplets emitted from ground. I personally think that the lighting show is just so so, not as attractive as the sunset view and the panorama night view of Victoria Harbour in front of the park.

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天黑前刚亮灯的塔楼。
Tower with garish light before the dark.
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塔楼会不停地转换颜色。
Tower lights up with different color.
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观塘海滨花园对岸就是维多利亚港。
Opposite the Kwun Tong Promenade is Victoria Harbour.
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对岸的港岛暮色。 
Twilight of Hong Kong Island.

观塘海滨花园面向维多利亚港,一部分被前方的启德邮轮码头挡住了,但景色还是不错的。所以,要看维多利亚港,除了尖沙咀,就数观塘这里了,尤其是从启德邮轮码头近看维多利亚港,那里是真的没有任何阻碍物,坐拥无敌景观。重点是,观塘这里没有尖沙咀那里那么喧哗,游人较少,可随意走动拍照。

The Kwun Tong Promenade is just opposite Victoria Harbour, part of the view has blocked by Kai Tak Ferry Pier, but the view it still not bad. Besides Tsim Sha Tsui, Kwun Tong is another option to view Victoria Harbour. Of course, the best view is at Kai Tak Ferry Pier since there are no obstacles to view the beautiful harbor. The point is Kwun Tong is quieter than Tsim Sha Tsui, not many visitors there, so anyone can walk freely and take photos easily.

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在海滨花园欣赏黄昏景色的大多都是当地人。
Most of the visitors who watch the beautiful sunset are local people.
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在启德邮轮码头附近停泊了不少船只。
Quite a lot of boats berth at the Kai Tak Ferry Pier.

至于渡轮嘛,观塘码头这里也可以坐渡轮到港岛啊!只是,这里的渡轮只去北角和西湾河,不去中环和湾仔。到北角的渡轮单程港币5元,全程15分钟,途中能饱览九龙和港岛两岸的风光,尤其是傍晚时分是最迷人的了。个人喜欢到北角,可走到米其林级别的添好运吃酥皮叉烧包,或到春秧街行走于叮叮车穿行的街市。如果要去铜锣湾或中环,可从北角这里搭叮叮车,单程港币2.3元。

The Kwun Tong Public Pier has ferry to cross to Hong Kong Island, but the ferry goes to North Point and Sai Wan Ho, not Central and Wan Chai. To North Point, it only costs HK$ 5 one way, takes about 15 minutes to reach. Best time to view Kowloon and Hong Kong Island from the ferry is during evening time. I personally like to go to North Point as I can walk to the Michelin star dim sum restaurant, Tim Ho Wan, to eat the famous baked char siew pau, or walk to Chun Yeung Street that popular with tram across the wet market. If you want to go to Causeway Bay or Central, can simply take the tram from North Point, it only costs HK$ 2.30 one way.

交通:

  • 地铁:在观塘站下,从B2出口往开源道方向走,大约10分钟后会先到码头,然后转右再走两三分钟就是海滨花园了。或在牛头角站下,从B6出口往海滨道方向走,大约5分钟就到了海滨花园,要去码头则转左走10分钟左右。
  • 巴士:有很多线的巴士都去观塘海滨花园,包括11D、15A、15P、23、74X、80、80P、80X、83X、93A、268C或269C线,可到香港康乐及文化事务署的官网查看 http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/parks/ktp/access.html
  • 渡轮: 从北角或西湾河有渡轮到观塘,大约每半小时一班,从北角过来观塘5元,从西湾河过来是9元。每周六和周日,渡轮都有去启德邮轮码头。

Transportation:

  • MTR: Get off at Kwun Tong station, exit from B2 to Hoi Yuen Road, walk about 10 minutes to reach Kwun tong Public Pier, then turn right and walk about 2 to 3 minutes will reach to the waterfront park. Or get off at Ngau Tau Kok station, exit from B6 to Hoi Bun Road, walk about 5 minutes will reach to the waterfront park, turn left and walk another 10 minutes to the pier from waterfront park.
  • Bus: There are a lot of buses depart to Kwun Tong Promenade, including bus number 11D, 15A, 15P, 23, 74X, 80, 80P, 80X, 83X, 93A, 268C, or 269C. For details, please visit the official website of Leisure and Cultural Services Department of Hong Kong at http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/ktp/access.html
  • Ferry: There are ferries from North Point or Sai Wan Ho to Kwun Tong, about every 30 minutes once, HK$ 5 from North Point and HK$ 9 from Sai Wan Ho. The ferry only goes to Kai Tak Ferry Pier every Saturday and Sunday.
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坐渡轮经过启德邮轮码头时,用手机随拍的照片。
Took this photo with smartphone when I passed by Kai Tak Ferry Pier on a ferry.
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在开往北角的渡轮上,用手机拍摄港岛和启德邮轮码头。
I snapped this photo with my smartphone when I was on a ferry from Kwun Tong to North Point. The background is Hong Kong Island and Kai Tak Ferry Pier.
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